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Critical Path In Fashion Buying

  • In the fashion industry, the critical path in fashion buying plays a pivotal role within the seasonal buying setup and the broader framework of new product development (N.P.D.). Spanning from manufacturing to product delivery at stores, it represents the meticulously planned journey for each season's offerings. Orchestrated by the buying director, the critical path is then disseminated among the team of buyers, merchandisers, and other stakeholders, ensuring preparedness for the year ahead.

    WHAT IS CRITICAL PATH

    This schedule of key dates from the buying point of view for product development and production is known as the ‘critical path’ because it is critical that deadlines are met if the range is to be launched on time by the intended date.

    These key dates for the season are planned by the buying director and the merchandising manager which are then passed down to the buying and merchandising teams in order to plan in-house meetings and visits with suppliers.

    The critical path is used to monitor progress on deadlines for testing and approval of fabric quality, color, garment trims and garment fit. The buyer’s aim is to have everything approved prior to the required deadline to allow for any rejections or re-submissions of fabric, trims or fitting samples.

    This can be a difficult path to predict as most styles have not been in production before. Product development and production run concurrently with the retailer’s critical path, this normally happens during the May month. The buyer usually liaises with the manufacturer. The relationship between buyer and supplier is crucial to the success of the retailer and should ideally be mutually supportive .

    SEASONAL RETAIL BUYING SEQUENCE

    Since the Critical path is overall buying planing, it is very imperative that you understand the conventional buying sequence for the Autumn Winter season.

    Early September -Analysis and development of new concepts, Analysis of previous years range, Identify good sales based on performance. Analysis of forward trends - in-house design staff. Range Plan built on improvements, revisions to existing products, additions to existing product lines incorporation of new products into the range.

    Late September - First stage screening, further development of concepts and initial product development all now able to proceed. Initial presentation - range plan ideas for basic approval take place and alteration cycle. Further research - shopping trips - Europe and America. Buyer / supplier meetings / exchange ideas and give direction, Sampling / alteration process

    Early to mid – October - Second stage screening conducted product development continues, Visits to fabric fairs Supplier development continues, Concepts and styles approved by the controller a presentation is made at director level.

    November - end of January Product development is finalized, Test marketing planned for new ranges. Sampling / negotiating continues with suppliers. Range meetings take place - end of January with directors for approval of final ranges. / Range plans tested Higher fashion lines risk / flexibility built into the range to purchase more new ideas if proved successful once launched.

    Mid – February-  Marketers develop mix variables in-store / promotional ideas take place.

    April -May - Chasing production, quality checks / monitoring progress. Feedback used as a continual review process.

    July - August - First phase range launched in stores. Phasing of delivery every six to eight weeks.

    In the realm of fast fashion, the critical path is notably brief, reflecting the urgent need to swiftly produce and deliver new fashion trends to consumers. For brands such as ZARA and H&M, the critical path typically spans 15-21 days, a crucial component of their strategic approach. These companies prioritize minimizing both buying and lead times to ensure rapid response to market demands.